Tokyo Collection Report: Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO S/S2023

Finally it's time for fashion!! Bigger than last year, many brands confirmed to release the new collection for upcoming seasons in Tokyo Fashion Week or Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO this year. Take a glimpse of the latest trends and looks from the city of fashion Tokyo.

UCF 

UCF Spring/Summer 2023 collection is released at Tokyo's Chichibunomiya Rugby Stadium as part of Tokyo Fashion Week with a theme "Shape shift".

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Focuses on the concept of "Change" in the form of clothes by using the black and white color fabrics and cooling light materials.

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

When the balls dropping on the runway, its circular shape were combined with the human  silhouette unexpectedly while the fabrics blowing elegantly along with the movement of each balls and models on the runway.

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

UCF is established by UEDA Fashion Laboratory in 2014, to propose an innovative brand combining ambitious young creators and Japanese traditional textile weavers. The young talents create an original and pure “Black & White Universe” which is inspired by the extraordinary materials and craftsmanship.

WEBwww.ucf.jp

WATARU TOMINAGA 

WATARU TOMINAGA by designer Wataru Tominaga released its Spring/Summer 2023 collection for the first times in Japan at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO on 2 September 2022.

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

It's quite difficult to guess what is the main inspiration behind the show, but the fancy colors and artworks on each pieces remind of the dreamland. Allow all wearers matching the clothes freely by its vivid colours and stylish drawing graphics. There are no boundaries between male and female, an iconic motifs which is not limited by the trends or rules from WATARU TOMINAGA.

WEBwww.watarutominaga.com

HOUGA

HOUGA by designer Moe Ishida presented Spring and Summer collection on the runway of the runway at Shibuya Hikarie, Tokyo on 30 August 2022.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia 

Different from the previous seasons, the latest theme for Spring/Summer 2023 is "MY WILL, OUR WILL". Designer Moe Ishida introduced the street dresses that you can wear by mix it in your own style, anytime, ageless and genderless.

Image: inStyle Asia 

Image: inStyle Asia

Inspired by "ores and gems" that designer Moe personally collected them little by little and keep well since she was young, so we can see the colors of the precious stones on each item like sapphire blue or ruby red.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

At the interview after the show, designer Moe Ishida said about her lastest collection's motivation.

"I wanted to bring out the rebellious spirit within me. I just recently felt about “uncomfortable feeling” and “doubt” toward to the things is the source of inspiration. HOUGA collection offers the romantic and tenderness image to everyone, but instead of wearing a clothes in a fixed pattern, I personally like the clothes with blank space that make me wonder if it's me what I should wear. I wanted people with different tastes  enjoy it by express it by their own”

Designer Moe Ishida during interview at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO (Image: inStyle Asia)

WEBhouga.jp

ablankpage

When the show started, a model who wears a hat made by many Thai banknote with the king face on the head walking on the stage. Reinterpreted from a Thai word "God on the head" which is Thai people called to the king.

Image: inStyle Asia 

During Thailand's politics heat up by young protesters, Larprojpaiboon Phoovadej, a Tokyo-base Thai designer and ablankpage brand founder unveils S/S2023 collection at Shibuya Hikarie in Tokyo on 31 August 2022.

Image: inStyle Asia 

Image: inStyle Asia

Reinterpreted Thai culture in his iconic style and also "calling out" for freedom as a young generation in abroad through many hidden messages on his newest collection, like the word "Uncle" in English which is called by young Thai people for current prime minister as an older generation representative and "buud" in Thai letters means "EXPIRED or OUT" as well as the graphic of a young portrait who looks like a prisoner at the runway in fashion city of Tokyo.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

The crafted robot pendants and the human-shaped crown match with a white outfit.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

WEB: instagram ablankpage official 

BASICKS

DHL Express announced to collaborate with BASICKS in Japan. Tokyo-based BASICKS by designer Masanori Morikawa released its Spring and Summer collection 2023 at DHL distribution center, Shinkiba district in Tokyo.

First times to see the world leader delivery group joined the fashion industry, to represent the sustainability and positive fashion after pandemic.

Image: inStyle Asia 

Image: InStyle Asia 

Morikawa is known as a designer for CHRISTIAN DADA before he established his own label BASICKS in 2021.

Image: inStyle Asia 

Image: inStyle Asia 

Not only DHL group, BASICKS also released the new items by collaborating with British sportswear brand UMBRO for S/S2023 collection.

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Create the things change positively by the new basic items combined in green, white, black and gray color in Basicks Style.


WEBbasicks.jp


KEIICHIROSENSE

On 29 August 2022, the first day of Tokyo fashion week, KEIICHIROSENSE by designer Keiichiro Yuri released its S/S 2023 collection with a concept "a passion never experience before", reinterpreted the Japanese traditional things in designer's iconic styles.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

Designer Keiichiro Yuri started his career as a bag designer for more 10 years. He saw the declining of Japanese traditional things and wanted to share its value through the bag. It became an idea to launch his brand label KEIICHIROSENSE, to express the sense of Japanese traditional things such as traditional technique and textile with his iconic style. The brand received many awards outside Japan and collaborated with many brands include RYNSHU.


Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

el conductorH

Tokyo-based street brand "el conductorH" by designer Shintaro Nagamine released S/S2023 in Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO and also celebrating 5 years anniversary at the after-party with many renowned DJ and rappers like JIN DOGG, BLAISE at "Grit at Shibuya", Tokyo on 1 September 2022.

The after-party at Grit Shibuya, Tokyo (Image: inStyle Asia)

Represents the Spring and Summer collection with a new concept "The Judgement Day" under the blue and red light color and collaborated with many global brands like Dickies, Schott, GEORGE COX and more.



Shizumi


Shizumi Spring/Summer 2023 collection by designer Shun Izumi in Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo on 2 September 2022.

Image: inStyle Asia 

Image: inStyle Asia 

In 2017, Shun Izumi launched a fashion brand "Shizumi". Hand-dyed and painted one by one to express emotions that explode in tranquility under the brand concept "Emotions". The team has reorganized since his brother Daisaku Izumi joined the team in 2018.


Image: inStyle Asia 

Image: inStyle Asia

Neglect Adult Patients

Neglect Adult Patients attract the audiences by its unique shows every year such as a model who keep eating “cup noodle” while walking on the runway. This year, the Spring/Summer 2023 collection is unveiled on a movable stage at Shibuya Hikarie Tokyo on 30 August 2022.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

The oversize hoodie characterized the glamorous look on the street and each piece is really basic and fits to wear daily.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

A  V-shaped collar shirt , one of the stylish looks from "Neglect Adult Patients" S/S 2023 “Parklife” collection. The moving stage with floral paintings is creatively set as a backdrop,  reveals the beauty of youth when they're walking on the street.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

WEBwww.wack.jp

ANREALAGE

ANREALAGE by designer Kunihiko Morinaga celebrate its 20th anniversary next year, held a runway show on 2 September 2022, first times in 3 years in Tokyo due to pandemic, presented through a theme A & Z" The first letter and last letter in English alphabet, the opposite letters which is also using as the "ANREALAGE" brand logo since established in 2013.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

Combined the digital 3D mapping presentation and physical show by real models, captures the brand's theme and features all previous season collections and bring everyone back to the past and moving on for the future, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary and finding the creative ways to make people feel so amazing and enjoy the world of fashion.

Image: inStyle Asia

ANREALAGE is a combination of the words "REAL", "UNREAL" and "AGE”. Like its meaning, designer Kunihiko presents the new collection by combining the Tokyo's most creative digital art experience with its futuristic atmosphere and the physical show in Tokyo Fashion Week this season.

Image: inStyle Asia

Since designer Kunihiko introduced ANREALAGE as part of Paris Fashion Week, ANREALAGE S/S23 is set to release in Paris with the theme "Age" on 29 September 2022.

WEBwww.anrealage.com

Pays des fées

The flowers headdress, the tassels decoration and lace fabric collar on the white dress, one of the awesome looks from "Pays des fées" Spring/Summer 2023 collections by designer Asafuji Lim in Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO, at Nakano Broadway Tokyo on 1 September 2022. By the brand concept of "Strange and Cute", Pays des fées showcasing the iconic Tokyo's Kawaii mode to all fashionistas worldwide.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

Designer Asafuji Lim at the interview in Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO (Image: inStyle Asia)

WEBpays-des-fees.com

LEVER COUTURE

Tina Karol, a renowned Ukrainian singer and actress make a special appearance on the runway at Tokyo National Museum's Kyoheikan building in Tokyo Fashion Week, calling to end of the conflict by performing the new reinterpreted Ukranian traditional song for Los Angeles-based LEVER COUTURE by an Ukrainian designer Lessja Verlingieri.

Tina Karol performs on the runway in Tokyo National Museum (Image: inStyle Asia)

The song "Україна - це ти" (Ukraine is you) is included in the school curriculum and a textbook on Ukrainian literature. Today, this song has become an unofficial anthem of the country and a symbol of unity, performed at Ukrainian events around the world and by children at school events and graduations.

Model Aoi wears a dress inspired by Leleka, a Ukrainian bird's features from LEVER COUTURE in Tokyo National Museum (Image: inStyle Asia)

"Leleka“ in Ukrainian is a kind of bird represents the family's love, welfare and happiness, one of the gorgeous looks from LEVER COUTURE by Ukrainian designer Lessja Verlingieri in Tokyo collection. The clouds-like pattern long dresses with vividly colours shining the hopes for her homeland.

Model Rinao Fukushi wears a pink dress by  LEVER COUTURE (Image: inStyle Asia)

WEBwww.lever-couture.com

BASE MARK

BASE MARK by designer Shiho Kaneki released S/S23 collection with a theme "WIDE PICTURES" at Shibuya Tokyo on 31 August 2022.

Image: inStyle Asia 

Image: inStyle Asia

Designer Shiho got an inspiration from the wide-angle lens during she works for the previous season's looks. The crimson letters "WIDE PICTURES" is displayed on the orange fabric and the distorted round collar, technically create the three dimensional form on the inner shirt.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia
WEBbasemark.jp

Kudos/Soduk

First times to see a crop top made of the metallic rings from Kudos/Soduk by Tsukasa Kudo, an Okinawa-born designer and fashion photographer.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

Through the keywords like "Twisting codes", "Between oneself and the outside world", "Okinawa", homeland", "Gay marriage", "a man", "Do i like him", "Yes i like him", "You are just beautiful", "lonely", "fear", "1972", "2022" and more. The latest collection released at Shibuya Hikarie in Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO on 3 September 2022

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

The show on runway represents a gay couple marriage and the wedding celebration which is reinterpreted into the Spring and Summer collection in Kudos and Soduk style. All guests received a photo book which is shot by designer himself after the show like a wedding gift.

Taishin Isotani on the runway (Image: inStyle Asia)

 Taishin Isotani, a renowned Japanese kick boxer for Kudos/Soduk (Image: inStyle Asia)

Taishin Isotani stuns in a dress by Kudos/Soduk on the runway in Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO (Image: inStyle Asia)

Taishin Isotani, a professional kick boxer stuns on the runway for Tokyo-based Kudos/Soduk SS2023.

WEBsoduk.co

GENZAI

Music, body movement and clothes is melt to be a presentation from Tokyo-based street brand GENZAI by designer Tetsuya Nagato designer at Yoyogi National Gymnasium as part of Tokyo Fashion Week on 31 August 2022.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

The show begun with a live performance by rapper Hideyoshi, following by all models who wearing the Spring and Summer 2023 collection. At the end, more 100 street dancers appeared to perform their body movement with rapper Hideyoshi.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

The theme of this season is "DYSTOPIA", a land where is opposite from Utopia. We are living together with the worst situation like war or pandemic.

Image: inStyle Asia

WEByz-store.com/collections/genzai

FUMIE TANAKA

FUMIE TANAKA released a newest S/S2023 collection under the theme "Clear Seed" on the runway at Yoyogi National Gymnasium, near Harajuku Tokyo on 30 August 2022.

Image: inStyle Asia
O9
Image: inStyle Asia

Attracted by its voluminous clothes and the blossoms motif which is the theme of the upcoming seasons. The vintage style dresses and stylish accessories reminds the Dallas, a former name of the brand by designer Fumie Tanaka.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

"The world has become accustomed to the topics of pandemic and war. The new information has been overlooked. It's time we are in trouble. But in fact, everyone has a transparent seed. I don't know what kind of flowers you had but I want you stepping forward with a positive feeling for the future. I aimed to create a collection, to give you courage and encourage those who wear it.", designer Fumie said after the show.

Image: inStyle Asia

Image: inStyle Asia

The flower seeds were given as souvenirs to the guests. There is a message in the envelope.

"You don't know when and what kind of flower will bloom, people are wonderful. Tell me the name of that flower."

WEB: Instagram FUMIE TANAKA official 

PH MODE x TYO by MFF (Manila Fashion Festival)

The show is held at Omotesando Tokyo at MIL GALLERY JINGUMAE on 2 September 2022. Established in 2014, Manila Fashion Festival (MFF) is the Philippine's biggest fashion week, featuring collections of established and promising designers.

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

PH MODE x TYO by MFF transpired in collaboration with STYLEM, a leading fabric trading company in Japan. Philippine’s top designers created an exclusive collection ensemble by merging Japan’s quality fabric and Philippine indigenous material, paving way for creative camaraderie.

WEBmff-official.com

Image: Courtesy of the brand 

Image: Courtesy of the brand

AFROMATIC TOKYO

Discover the beauty of African fashion in Tokyo. AFROMATIC TOKYO is an introduction into the beautiful world of contemporary African Art and Fashion.

OLUBIYI THOMAS

The label explores stories of multiculturalism and hidden identity, borne out of creative director Olubiyi’s self-reflection on his Nigerian origins and Scottish upbringing.

Image: Courtesy of the brand

Image: Courtesy of the brand

Inspired by his heritage, Olubiyi vividly reimagines the linkages between British Post-Colonialism and African cultural history. Focusing on carefully sourced sustainable textiles and craftsmanship each piece is handmade in London.

WEBwww.olubiyithomas.com

Image: Courtesy of the brand

Image: Courtesy of the brand

WEBwww.afromatictokyo.com

There are many more brands released in Tokyo this season. Follow us to get the update on the next articles.

inStyle Asia Report 

Image/text: inStyle Asia




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