SOSHIOTSUKI presents its Fall/Winter 2025 collection with a new vision of "Japanese trad" that explores the identity of Japanese people and their complexes in Western society, weaving together the sadness and introspection that lie hidden within. The aim of this collection is not perfect beauty, but the sexiness that is born from imperfection.
By eliminating excessive decoration and incorporating calculated distortion and subtle discomfort into a simple structure, we have created clothes that exude a quiet yet powerful energy. One of the inspirations for this collection was the image of Japanese men during the bubble era of the 1980s. We have reinterpreted that aesthetic sense in a modern way and added new shape suggestions. The symbolic power shoulder has been changed to a rounded silhouette, suppressing the traditional rigid lines.
The jacket's deep V-zone reveals the waist, subtly disrupting the balance of a classic suit. In addition, the gorge line and pockets are intentionally set low, while the pants are high-waisted, creating an unnatural silhouette. The shoulder construction is also unique.
A stiff core is placed at the point where the average man's shoulder width would be, emphasizing the shoulder structure. In addition, the drape falling from the shoulders is intentionally pinched with tucks to control the flow and create a calculated movement. For the knitwear, the stiff knitting up to the shoulder width emphasizes the male décolleté, creating a design that highlights the structural beauty of the body. This idea is based on the personal memories of designer Otsuki Soshi's experiences in mid-2000s.
Otsuki's experience in judo led to broad shoulders, which meant he had to wear jackets with narrow shoulders, which were the trend at the time. This experience led him to continue to think deeply about the element of "shoulder width," which led to the silhouette of this collection. Another important theme of this collection is questioning the "perfection" that Japanese products have.
The "dimples" at the end of darts, which are usually considered B-grade in regular tailoring, are intentionally transformed into tucks, which creates a drape that brings out the beauty of accidental wear. By combining soft fabric with interlining, a contrast in texture where hardness and softness coexist is created, bringing a new form to the body silhouette.
In addition, this collection uses some vintage deadstock fabrics to add texture and depth over time. The main wool fabric is a special material woven in Oshu, Japan, that samples Italian suit fabric from the 1980s. By combining traditional craftsmanship with a modern perspective, the material from the past has been elevated to a new expression.
"What is the next step after kimono, the new Japanese trad?" The core of this collection is exploring this question. A fusion of Western formal wear and Japanese sensibility. The quiet tension that arises between these two is the reality of modern Japanese people and the form of beauty that we aim for.
About SOSHIOTSUKI and designer Soshi Otsuki
Designer Soshi Otsuki launched the menswear label SOSHIOTSUKI in 2015, proposes a dandyism created by Japanese spirituality and tailoring techniques.
In 2016, he was nominated for the shortlist of the "LVMH PRIZE 2016". In the same year, he held an exhibition in Paris. In 2023, he presented a runway show at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO.
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